With the current controversy about marmalade it is interesting to note that John Galt wrote about "marmlet", the old Scottish word for marmalade in the Ayrshire Legatees which was published in 1821. His wonderful character, Mrs Pringle, wife of the Rev Dr Zachariah Pringle of Garnock, packed some to take with her on a trip to London. It was then considered a delicacy. In Chapter 3, Letter 6, Mrs Pringle writes from London to her friend Miss Mally Glencairn back in Garnock. She tells her friend about the supplies she packed before leaving Garnock which she thought would be necessary in London including some muslin because she had heard that London shops –
“get all their fine muslins from Glasgow and Paisley; and in the same bocks [box] with them I packit a small crock of our ain excellent poudered butter, with a delap cheese, for I was told that such commodities are not to be had genuine in London. I likewise had in it a pot of marmlet [marmalade], which Miss Jenny Macbride gave me at Glasgow, assuring me that it was not only dentice [a delicacy], but a curiosity among the English."
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| 18th century recipe for marmalade |
Mrs Pringle tends to spell words as she would say them. However, Mrs Pringle’s careful packing of necessities and delicacies suffered from the journey, as she goes on to describe –
"Howsomever, in the nailing of the bocks, which I did carefully with my oun hands, one of the nails gaed in a-jee, and broke the pot of marmlet, which by the jolting of the ship, ruined the muslin, rottened the peper round the goun, which the shivers cut into more than twenty great holes. Over and above all, the crock with the butter was, no one can tell how, crackit, and the pickle lecking out and mixing with the seerip of the marmlet, spoilt the cheese. In short, at the object I beheld when the bocks was opened, I could have ta’en to the greeting; but I behaved with more composity on the occasion than the doctor thought it was in the power of nature to do.”
Galt also refers to the popularity of jams and other preserves in the Annals of the Parish (Chapter 28, Year 1787) when the Rev Michah Balwhidder notes –
“I should not, in my notations, forget to mark a new luxury
that got in among the commonality at this time.
By the opening of new roads, and the traffic thereon with carts and
carriers, and by our young men that were sailors going to the Clyde and sailing
to Jamaica and the West Indies, heaps of sugar and coffee-beans were brought
home, while many, among the kail-stocks and cabbages in their yards had planted
groset [gooseberry] and berry bushes; which two things happening together, the fashion to
make jam and jelly, which hitherto had been only known in the kitchens and
confectionaries of the gentry, came to be introduced into the clachan.”
| Greenock Harbour |
“All this, however, was not without a plausible pretext; for it was found that jelly was an excellent medicine for a sore throat, and jam a remedy as good as London candy for a cough, or a cold, or a shortness of breath. I could not, however, say that this gave me so much concern as the smuggling trade, only it occasioned a great fasherie to Mrs Balwhidder; for, in the berry time, there was no end to the borrowing of her brass-pan to make jelly and jam, till Mrs Toddy of the Cross-Keys bought one, which in its turn, came into request, and saved ours.”
One of John Galt's great strengths as a writer is the way he uses ordinary people and households to illustrate the changes that were going on in local society and the wider world. Marmlet - what a great word!

























